I wanted to focus on some of the key ingredients that I use in all of GRAM Skincare products…my Nutra-VÎt Complex^tm.   The three ingredients in my complex are Niacinamide, Glucosamine and Vitamin E.  These three ingredients work synergistically together and have a ton of benefits for the skin when used topically.

The benefits of Nutra-Vît Complex™are:

• Balances skin hydration
• Supports collagen and elastin production
• Aids in wound healing
• Reduces appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
• Reduces skin discoloration (age spots, pregnancy mask, sun damage)
• Helps prevent the appearance of future hyperpigmentation
• Anti-inflammatory
• Anti-oxidant – combats free radical damage
• Promotes healthy cell turnover and natural repair process
• Protects skin from environmental aggressors and premature aging
• Helps maintain the natural oil balance

Last week I spoke about the importance of understanding the ingredients in your products and how they can potentially cause problems. This week I will be giving you the inside scoop on the most beneficial ingredients available and why they are so incredible.

So, how can you be sure the ingredients on the label will do what the manufacturer says they will do? At SKIN1, it’s a matter of ethics. I don’t just choose ingredients based on a hot new trend or because they’re the newest marketing buzz. Instead, I look for ingredients of the highest quality (which are pharmaceutical grade) and identify those that work synergistically with each other. If the ingredients don’t work together, all you’ll end up with is a bottle full of worthless creamy stuff.

Here is an overview of 6 key ingredients SKIN1 by Dr Gram uses in all products to help fight the signs of aging and keep the number one enemy to healthy skin under control…inflammation.

Niacinamide

ORIGIN: Brewer’s yeast, sunflower seeds, and peanuts

IMPORTANCE: It is Vitamin B3, a water soluble vitamin, and the active form of Niacin without the side effects of flushing and itching. It also fights inflammation in the skin. Inflammation causes the collagen and elastin to breakdown which in turn can cause fine line and wrinkles and acne.

Glucosamine

ORIGIN: One of the sources is shellfish. N-acetyl glucosamine, which is a more stable version, is what is used in skincare products.

IMPORTANCE: N-acetyl glucosamine is a substance that inhibits glycosylation of pro-tyrosinase – a key process in melanin overproduction in UV damaged skin which can lead to liver spots and freckles.  It can also help improve skin tone, barrier function and hyperpigmentation.  BONUS: It works synergistically with niacinamide to enhance its anti-aging properties.

Vitamin E

ORIGIN: Avocado, seeds, and wheat germ to mention a few

IMPORTANCE: Alpha-tocopherol is the most used form of vitamin E in skincare. It is a lipid-soluble antioxidant, and it protects the skin cells from oxidation by attacking the free radicals caused by sun damage and pollution to name a couple. When mixed with niacinamide and glucosamine they all work synergistically together to fight inflammation…enemy number one to healthy skin!

Apple Stem Cells

ORIGIN: Rare Swiss Apples

IMPORTANCE: Using stem cell technology in SKIN1 products keeps us on the cutting-edge and gives you the best products with the best ingredients to get the best results!

So what do apple stem cells do? They protect the longevity of skin stem cells and fight the aging of the mature skin cells.

Vitamin C

ORIGIN: Citrus fruits

IMPORTANCE: Super anti-oxidant…fights free radicals 10 times better than regular anti-oxidants.

Green Tea Extract

ORIGIN: Green tea leafs

IMPORTANCE: Green tea has several functions but the most important one is to reduce inflammation…do you see a theme with these ingredients? They all fight inflammation which leads to younger, healthier looking skin by fighting the aging process. Green tea works synergistically with sun screens to help reduce sun damage by decreasing the inflammation, decreasing fine lines and wrinkles, and also has antibacterial activity to help fight acne.

The one key thing that all these ingredients do is fight inflammation.  That is the basis of my apothecary skincare line because inflammation is enemy number one to healthy skin!!!

Check Out Dr Gram on San Diego Living at 9am this Thursday July 2nd 2009.  That is San Diego CW channel 6.  Dr Gram will be talking about healthy skin, inflammation and how SKIN1 by Dr Gram products will help keep your skin looking and feeling healthy

Newly released SKIN1 by Dr. Gram is the first professional line to specifically address chronic inflammation, which research has linked to causing premature aging, skin damage and acne.

Newly released SKIN1 by Dr. Gram is the first professional line to specifically address chronic inflammation, which research has linked to causing premature aging, skin damage and acne. Compounding pharmacist Dr. Bernard Gramlich utilizes synergies between natural, organic, and pharmaceutical-grade ingredients to prevent chronic inflammation and meet the needs of daily skin maintenance/protection. It is also the only professional line that is sulfate, paraben and fragrance free.

SKIN1 by Dr. Gram

“Scientific research connected chronic cutaneous inflammation with premature aging and other diseases such as cancer over 50 years ago, so I was surprised to learn this is the first line to control all effects of inflammation,” said Dr. Gramlich. “Most skin care products have one or two active ingredients in high concentrations which can be extremely harsh – there are 11 active ingredients in every SKIN1 by Dr. Gram product to gently yet effectively treat skin.”

About Inflammation: The three irritants that disrupt the skin barrier to cause inflammation are: environmental (smoking, allergens, UV rays and pollution); hormonal (stress and acne); and physical (harsh products, medical/cosmetic procedures, and preservatives). Acute inflammation is triggered to repair the damaged skin barrier by remodeling the injured skin. The body does not know when to stop “fixing” itself and continues producing pro-inflammatory molecules to ensure the problem is corrected. This is chronic inflammation which results in breakdown of collagen elastin, increase in oil production, and an increase in free radicals. SKIN1 by Dr. Gram is designed to prevent acute inflammation from becoming chronic.

Nutra-VÎt Complex™ This signature complex is included in all SKIN1 by Dr. Gram products. It utilizes the synergies between Niacinamide, glucosamine and two types of Vitamin E to fight inflammation and aging, moisturize, renew DNA, balance skin and slow skin discoloration.

Stem Cell Technology
Eye Rescue is the first skin care product to utilize Rutin, a powerful antioxidant that stabilizes Vitamin C, strengthens collagen/elastin in capillaries and chelates metals from the skin. By reproducing stem cells from Buckwheat, the most powerful source of this ingredient, Dr. Gram has been able to create a natural version that does not oxidize. Microsphere technology effectively delivers Rutin and Vitamin K, a vasoconstrictor, to strengthen capillaries to dramatically reduce dark circles and puffiness from under the eye. It includes extra protection from Vitamin C and two forms of Vitamin E, which infuse the skin with unsurpassed antioxidant action and nourishment. The signature Nutra-VÎt Complex™ works synergistically with botanical extracts to diminish fine lines and wrinkles, while aiding the skin’s natural recovery from environmental damage.

Daily Regimen: Daily Scrub, Daily Cleanser, Daily Moisturizer, Eye Rescue
Daily Scrub contains the powerful action of bamboo, rice brand beads, and walnut shell to remove the dead surface skin cells that dull a complexion. It reveals the freshest skin possible and allows the pure antioxidant and anti-aging properties of Green Tea and Vitamin E to directly impact the new skin cells. The signature Nutra-Vît ComplexTM helps balance hydration, decrease hyperpigmentation, and nourish the complexion. The blend of organic, pharmaceutical grade, and natural ingredients work synergistically together to enhance the skin’s natural resurfacing properties and will invigorate tired dull looking skin.

Acne Regimen: Clarifying Cleanser, Clarifying Toner, Clarifying Mask
Clarifying Mask brings together the antiseptic power of sulfur and camphor with the soothing relief of oat flour to clear and soothe acne prone skin. This nutrient-rich treatment purifies and brightens the skin, while minimizing the appearance of pores. Nutra-VÎt Complex™ works synergistically with botanical extracts to balance skin hydration and reduce hyperpigmentation, while aiding the skin’s natural recovery from free radical damage.

Clarifying Cleanser is a non-drying formula designed for all skin types, but especially beneficial for oily or acne-prone skin. This deep purifying cleanser uses salicylic acid to promote healing and preventing of blemishes by removing blackhead-causing bacteria from the pores while simultaneously exfoliating to decongest the skin. Antioxidants neutralize age accelerating free radicals while the natural, pharmaceutical grade and organic ingredients along with the botanicals calm and nourish the skin, leaving the complexion feeling refreshed and looking radiant.

Environmental Commitment
SKIN1 is committed to being an environmentally conscious company in all aspects of its business, implementing strict recycling guidelines and green eco-packaging. SKIN1 also only sources ingredients from eco-friendly companies that offer the finest natural, organic and pharmaceutical grade ingredients.

About SKIN1:
As the owner and operator of two successful West Coast pharmacies, Dr. Gramlich has worked with some of the most respected dermatologists in the country. SKIN1 by Dr. Gram merges the finest elements in nature with the most powerful pharmaceuticals to create successful synergies to treat chronic inflammation and common skin care issues without irritation. All products include the signature Nutra-Nutra-VÎt Complex™, a combination of anti-oxidants, skin rejuvenators and moisturizers. SKIN1 by Dr. Gram is free from parabens, sulfates and fragrances, and entirely cruelty-free, Available at www.dermstore.com, www.makemeheal.com  and exclusive salons and spas.

For more information visit www.drgram.com.

Premature aging of the skin and inflammation

Scientists have long known that the root cause of most skin damage is inflammation.  50 years ago, Dr. Denham Harmon first documented the connection between inflammation and skin damage while researching the destructive impact free radicals have on cells.  30 years ago, Kligman and Lavker detailed the role that inflammation plays in visibly aging skin.  More recently, science has identified a link between inflammation and multiple disease states, including heart attacks, colon, skin and prostate cancer, as well as aging of the skin. 

The mechanism of inflammation

There are many factors that can damage the skin:  UV radiation, smoking, excessively aggressive facials, harsh chemicals found in some skincare products, and even hormonal imbalances (for example, in the case of acne).  What most people don’t realize is that all of these agents are related to inflammation of the skin cells.  Irritants such as those above cause disruption of the skin barrier which in turn activates the release of tumor necrosis factor α (TNF) and interleukins 1 (IL1) and 8 (IL-8), as well as other pro-inflammatory molecules to induce protective acute inflammation and trigger repair of the damaged skin barrier.  Matrix metalloproteinases (MMP) are enzymes that activate inflammation and degrade the damaged dermal skin cells like collagen and elastin to remodel the skin after injury.  These destructive enzymes are produced in several skin cells, including fibroblasts, keratinocytes and mast cells.  Collagenase , stromelysin and gelatinase are the most important enzymes in the inflammatory response.  Visible skin aging like fine lines, wrinkles, fragility and laxity are due to solar elastosis, collagen destruction and tissue atrophy induced by damaging MMP activity. 

Thus, the acute inflammatory response plays a vital role in the repair of damaged skin cells.  But the modern woman often faces so much skin stress that chronic inflammation can result.  Here, the body has taken a beneficial reaction too far, and the continual release of destructive enzymes can damage the skin faster than it can repair itself.  The result is premature aging and the possibility of more serious diseases.  

Reversing the damage

For over 100 years, people have used aspirin and other anti-inflammatories to reduce internal inflammation.  And for decades people have taken antioxidant supplements to prevent damage to internal cells.  Now it’s possible to apply the healing properties of both these compounds to the skin as well, reducing current inflammation and preventing its recurrence in the future. 

Any skincare regimen intended to reduce visible skin aging should begin by addressing chronic skin inflammation.  Daily use of a skincare line that fights chronic inflammation will ensure that the skin is functioning at its optimal level of protection.  Dr. Gram has researched the mechanisms of inflammation and the thousands of herbal and antioxidant ingredients available to fight inflammation in topical skincare preparations.  He found that only fourteen of these ingredients have been rigorously tested and clearly shown in human clinical trials to improve skin condition and decrease the visible signs of aging in the skin.  They include, for example, the alpha hydroxy acids that can be found in apples, panax ginseng root extract, green tea, ginger root, retinols from carrots, soy bean extracts, and grape seed extracts.  Dr. Gram has incorporated these proven ingredients to create a new line of skin-care products called SKIN1.  Inflammation has been shown to increase the number of free radicals in the skin, break down collagen and elastin, and increase oil production.  While many lines of skincare products attack free radicals, and anti-aging products seek to heal the damage to collagen and elasting, only SKIN1 does both while also reducing excess oil production by avoiding harsh drying sulfates. 

In addition to SKIN1, Dr. Gram further recommends diet modification along the lines of Andrew Weil’s anti-inflammatory diet.  (Andrew Weil, MD, a leading name in the health field, believes that “without question, diet influences inflammation,” and has formulated a diet especially designed to reduce inflammation.)   

Conclusion

Recent scientific advances have made clear chronic inflammation’s connection to multiple skin conditions, as well as its connection to a host of systemic diseases including cancer.  It is clear that skincare products with the right ingredients can help prevent and reverse chronic inflammation, restoring the skin to its normal condition and helping to minimize, reverse, and/or prevent premature aging of the skin.  Virtually everyone would benefit from a diet rich in anti-inflammatory and antioxidant agents and daily use of topical anti-inflammatory and antioxidant agents such as those found in SKIN1.

One of the new ingredients of 2009 for the skincare industry is topically applied caffeine.  The skincare industry is undergoing a multitude of test using caffeine as a means of eliminating the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and rejuvenating skin to that youth glow that everyone dreams of having.  Caffeine is being tested now on mice but to date there are no test on humans that show it to be safe.  The testing on mice is very promising that caffeine could be very effective for fighting back father time but further testing is needed to make sure it is safe as well as effective on human skin.

According to test results, mice treated with topical caffeine showed fewer fine lines and wrinkles than the mice in the placebo group.  The part of the study that is promising for future use in the skincare industry is that the mice were exposed to ultraviolet rays and the ones treated with topical caffeine had fewer skin cells damaged than the mice not treated with caffeine.  Another really interesting observation was that the caffeine targeted abnormal skin cells to destroy but kept the healthy, normal skin cells intact.  This means that caffeine may not only be effective in fighting the aging of the skin but also preventing skin cancer.  The consumers will no doubt see an increase in caffeine being used in anti-aging products but more studies will need to done to prove the safety and efficacy of topical caffeine on human skin.

SKIN1 by Dr Gram does not have any products available with caffeine at this time.  Our labs will research the ingredient further and then we will evaluate the possible use of caffeine in our products.  Our motto is “put your skin first^TM” but we want to make sure that we put the consumer first and make sure that every product that bears the name SKIN1 is not only effective but safe for you and your skin.